Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 24
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
A. Derbyshire & F. Campbell, May 1994
Set of nuts, micro cams, double set up to #3, a #4 is nice, don't really need pins
This very good route has not been touched by the drill yet nor has seen lots of traffic yet. It has some good climbing up a surprisingly steep section on that part of the wall with rock from steep great yellow rock, a few stacked blocks in fractured grey limestone and solid sharp grey fun climbing. The first pitch has a good crux going around a roof on steep rock with a couple of moves on somewhat fractured rock, the crux is protected by a couple of poor pins with the closest by the crux easily moves by hand although you can back them up by a somewhat good cam, with the rest of the pitch climbing a steep corner crack. The belay is a self drive and pin with a decent #1 placement above the pin.
The second pitch has some awkward climbing through out with a somewhat insecure move or two right off the belay ledge until you can get a small cam above your head. The rest of the pitch climbs well and steep with the traverse at the top on small holds. The third pitch climbs the corner crack right above the belay on great cams and climbing up to the next ledge. This belay is a ring pin in a somewhat hollow flak with a #4 placement beside it.
The 4th pitch has some intresting climbing on a traverse heading up the only real waekness going at 5.9 with a underlap that will protect to a pin that can be somewhat hard to see, the climbing is about 15-20 feet from stepping out onto the wall, the rest of the pitch climbs some loose blocks on sharp rock with great friction to a belay stance with a large crack low down to arange a belay. The final pitch climbs the face above somewhat run out but easy soild fun climbing to the top.
Rap tounge right hand side, you can rap it with a single, or climb the upper wall by the route Extender
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-17
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Route ID: 108724
This is a very good route that no one seems to climb, it is great to have a great trad route with what seems to be sport routes on yam poping up everywhere. So in saying this you will not find sport climbing protection on this route, as well I was very surpised at how good the climbing was on this route as I have not heard much about this route. A must climb for those with decent route finding skills, pro placement skills are important on this route are very usefull as most placements are in diffcult areas.