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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Jazz Beat of the Nun's Groove

Jazz Beat of the Nun's Groove - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 21
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
J. Everett & D. Campbell, May 1996
Rock (Trad)
G
7
Nuts, set of cams up to #4, some doubles nice
760
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route has a lot of traversing going through many differnt routes and types of climbing as well as some very interesting places that it takes you on the wall that you normally would not encounter. There is a tricky area in order to get on the upper half of the climb and with Rejection of the Faith close by offers use of some of there belay stations to make things a bit faster. I would say that this route is a great example of limestone climbing in the rockies with great rock, polished rock, loose rock.

Descent Options:

Walk off

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-04
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 734
Route ID: 108609

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2010-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars very fun route

This is a great moderate route, we did the broken wing start inorder to avoid the scrambley polished stuff on unnamed and made for a bit more climbing. There is a bit of wondering once you get onto nuns proper but you can find a slightly harder line to take you to the Toe traverse which is a very easy treaverse line but something that I have looked at many times in the past wondering about it. I countinued up to the Rejection of the fath belay with a bit of rope drab but better postion for the next pitch for protection from rockfall. This can make the next pitch to be either very short or let you link the next one together with rope drag as well. This pitch seems to be where everyone gets lost or stumped and back off. As you reach the back of the Toe, start climbing up getting good pro in the back of the Toe, once about 20-30ft up you will see a faint traverse line and 2 hidden bolts for a station, I linked this pitch and the next together with rope drag to belay at the upper belay opion. We linked the last 2 pitchs together as well and aside from the scrappy start on the groove of pitch 6 and the poor landing if you were to bite it, that upper corner crack is very good fun climbing, the last pitch is the same exit as missionary crack.

This route is a very fine route with lots of diffrent types of climbing and I highly recomend this route for route finding, protecion and dealing with diffrnt rock qualities. We climbed this with a 70m single, set of nuts and a good selection of cams

Added: 2011-05-04