Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 54
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
A. Genereux & P. Gatzsch, September 2003
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Lots of bolts, half set of nuts, micro cams to #2 (BD), a 3 is nice but could easily do with out
This route is another one of Andy's 'modern mixed trad' routes, it follows small corners, grooves and thin face climbing up the far east side of Suicide wall. The route is basically a sport route with the odd few gear placements. This part of the wall is known for its share of flaky rock and 'kitty litter' and this route has that as well. It is a sustained route in the upper half and in parts quite thin. The pitch lengths 4-7 are out to lunch, they are basically 25-32m long. Be careful on this route as it is beside Balrog and finds solid rock in around loose stuff and anything you kick down winds up going into that route as well as can easily hit the trail as well.
Walk off to the west, route is set up to be rapped and aside from the top pitch it CAN be rapped with a 70m. Top pitch is about 38m
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-06-18
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Route ID: 109125
A decent route. The second pitch has a "keep out the Riff Raff" start that is probably the boldest part of the route. Crux pitches are well protected. I used less than a dozen natural placements. Green alien to Yellow Camalot. A pitch or two with poor rock.
I didnt really have any motivation to climb this route although I happened to find a partner that wasnt against going climbing when its cold and would at least belay in the rain so I picked this one knowing it would be more of a sport climb than anything and would be easy to retreat if it got to cold and wet. So we headed up, the rain and cold did make things a litle slower but I was surprised to find good rock bolted with the flaky loose rock protected with a bit of pro, some good parts of climbing seperated by junk. This route hs a few sustained pitchs and some good climbing. A note for P 4 as you enter the bottom of the corner that is guarded by a small head wall with poor rock, protect it low and traverse low as well, it you follow up to the block of good rock you find out that it is a block and you are now making moves of very poor rock with a ledge fall. Once above and into the corner this pitch climbs well.
Make no mistake with this route, it is basicly a sport climb, climbing 5.11b on solid rock with a bolt by your waist is alot diffrnt than climbing CMC wall, Yellow Edge, Marriage Rites.