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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Missionary's Crack

Missionary's Crack - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 22
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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D. Vockeroth & B. Greenwood, May 1964
Rock (Trad)
G
7
Trad rack
925
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

7 pitches with some really cool moves on pitch 4. It is graded 5.10a which is much closer to a real grade than 5.9 in the old guide book.

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2006-09-04
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 946
Route ID: 49653

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Missonary Crack

I led the pitch that has folks sort of questioning the grade on this route, the 6th pitch which I combined with the 5th pitch for one sustained 60m pitch. You can do this by setting up belay on the top of the corner. There is an existing bomber nut (2008) at that location. My two 2nds this day do a lot of climbing and thought it was more like 5.11a. I agree it was more than 5.10a, but would not go that far. Off width can seem a lot harder to some than others. What I will say, is that there is really no great jamming going on as the beta would lead you to believe. It is a corner pitch, plain and simple, with some heinous off width that I did not mind so much. You end up having to climb past an active eagles nest, so it would be best to not climb this route in early summer unless you just can't resist for some reason. The 4th pitch is steep for the grade as well, but quite fun. You really have to traverse on that first pitch and can get your ropes stuck on lead if not careful. A lot of loose rock on the 2nd pitch, don't go to high there. Watch the loose block on your tricky traverse of the 7th pitch as you are downclimbing. You need medium to larger gear in doubles if you are going to combine that 5th and 6th pitch as I did. I only had singles and had it quite run out. With Steve and Jackie.

Added: 2008-08-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2003-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

One of the hardest routes I have done. Thank god I hade a better climber with me. Quite a sandbag at 5.9. I would guess +5.10. Just like all old routes on yam keep in mind what year it was climbed!! Safe trip, cool climb

Added: 2003-07-08