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Smeagol - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 104
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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B. Greenwood & U. Kallen, May 1970
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Don't need your micro cams, a selection of nuts and .4 to #4 is good could take doubles of .75 to #2 if you wanted to stitch up the thrid pitch
350
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.60/5

Description:

A fun easy route if the weather is threatening, the upper pitch can be cold and wet but takes really good gear, recommend the direct start as it offers a bit more climbing.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the east

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2008-05-11
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1123
Route ID: 93687

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jasminelux on 2010-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome second and third pitch!

Pretty much the description that clews wrote... the first pitch made me wonder if it was worth going up there... but the second was fun corner work... and the third was airy chimney and off-width goodness!

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clews on 2010-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Climb

We had a very small window for weather that day. Forecasted snow in the morning followed by a couple hours of sun then snow in the early afternoon.

I've always wanted to climb this route but never felt like hiking all the way up for 3 pitches but figured since we only had a couple of hours of weather it was perfect.

The first pitch was crap. A big pile of choss and wasn't to inspiring but the next two were second to none!

Unlike a previous post, I was happy I brought up a couple smaller cams to help protect the second pitch... definitely not necessary but was nice to have.

Added: 2010-05-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2007-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Smeagol

Peter, Jo and I had driven up to Edith Cavell the night before, starred at the abyss (fog/rain shrouded mountain) and turned around back for Canmore. At least we got to see a bear and her cubs for our effort. Back at home at 3:AM, up at 9 or 10:AM, we looked for an easy, non-committing day out and Smeagol fit the bill.

Added: 2008-07-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Happywhale52 on 2008-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Smeagol, Yamnuska

hardest route I've ever done on Yam. 2nd pitch is great fun, and 3rd is pumpy overhung!! really fun short multipitch with interesting move. jamming, stemming, sidepull.... I wanna climb this route again

Added: 2008-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2008-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route

A good route, but wet and cold on the last pitch, frozen fingers led me to a slip but very good climbing with the 2nd pitch and thrid pitch makeing up the intrest

Added: 2008-05-11