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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : The Milky Way

The Milky Way - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 70
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
J. Josephson & D. Dornian, July 1998
Rock (Trad)
PG13
7
Lots of bolts, light set of nuts, micro cams to #4 camalot single set
1020
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route has some great climbing although bolt protected with some easier climbing in the middle. It has a bit of everything, techy face climbing, features, chimneys, traverses and steep pumpy stuff. In the the book its said that the first and last 2 pitches are excellent with the middle pitches being mediocre. I do agree but it gives you a bit of everything and if your partner is competent in following at grade but not confident in leading they could easily lead the middle ground. The second last pitch has a slightly runout exciting traverse on better holds that you expect. You can use a small cam as a mid point piece to make you feel better. The last pitch is great climbing on wildly spaced bolts but adequate for the protection.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the east. This route traverses so much that you would not want to rap it however you can make your way down on Bringers of the Dawn

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-03
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 412
Route ID: 114230

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars better route than thought

I found this route quite fun although the guide book only gives 1 out of 3 stars. I have climbed much of this route on other climbs but it was great to finily get it all together. The last pitch reminded me of the 5.11 exit on Forbidden Fruit just not as sustained but with a far more exciting finish.
I have climbed the 2nd last pitch twice, on of my partners has climbed it twice as well and says he would never go back to it because of the traverse and questionable rock. I find the traverse very cool and the holds are great, some of the rock is a bit questionable but not overly so. I recomand this route as in the book and other places seem to shit on it.

Added: 2013-08-03