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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : The Tongue-Left Side

The Tongue-Left Side - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 23
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
B. Blanchard & A. Pickel, 1982
Rock (Trad)
PG13
4
Set of nuts, cams up to #5 camalot, double 1,2 nice, pins are recommended in guide but not necessary
540
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route climbs the natural break on the left side of the tongue many through crack/corners and a bit face. The Crux is just a few meters off the ground protected by a poor pin on somewhat techy face/groove climbing. The rest of the route is climbing great corners/roofs and cracks.

Descent Options:

Rap right side in 5 30m raps

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-02
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 387
Route ID: 108577

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good route

This route is a lot better than what the yam book trys to state, the crux is poorly protected with a poor fall in my eyes. The rest of the climb aside from the odd section of loose rock this is a great short trad route with some very fun climbing and lots varation to take at your own choice or type of climbing. The route has not been graded in the new book like what Andy has done with other soft grading, you will not find this climbing on a 5.9 sport route but I feel that it is a good 5.9 yam route.

1st pitch crux is a bit heady with the possible fall although the climbing is all there. The belay is diffcult to make up without some pins although I Dont think I would take them on a 2nd go. 2nd pitch is by far the best climbing with great gear, solid rock where you want it with some strenuous pulls over the 1st roof and I went right on the second roof enjoying great pulls on it, I traversed towards missionary crack for a comfortable belay and fast set up with just have to back up pins, 3rd pitch is quite good as well to a 2 pin belay. 4th pitch has some great steming and also the odd climbing over towered blocks but still great.

Added: 2011-05-02