9 pitch 5.8(+) that climbs directly to the summit of Yamnuska. Expect tough sustained climbing for the first half followed by more relaxed climbing above. Loose rock, challenging route finding. Buy the guidebook at www.rmbooks.com.
Submitted by: admin on 2003-03-01
Route ID: 1506
A really fun and challenging route. Very enjoyable...even the 5h pitch traverse wasn't as bad as expected. Only thing with the route is the 9th pitch chockstone...horrible. Whoever rated it 5.8 is out of their mind! I wasn't leading that pitch and was glad of it. Very slick, overhung, and awkward not to mention sketchy pro....oh and did I mention it started raining by the 5th pitch!
Another great outing with Lynette...the chockstone on pitch 9 is a lot of fun....the traverse on pitch 5 is not....but after doing Forbidden Corner, no complaints about non protected traverses on Direttissima
second try for this route. hard classic 5.8+. 1st ,2nd, 5th, 9th has tough climb. really enjoyed it except polished sleek rock on last pitch. last two pitch is in shade, can be really cold even on sunny day, don't forget belay jucket!
I enjoyed it but was expecting more, the last pitch really wrecks the rest of the route, the next time I do it I'll try Sufftee or something, but after about 180 pitchs on Yam I went to the summit so it was a good day
Last pitch felt f-ing hard and slick. Have never looked at a topo and route decription so many times on a climb. I'm sure people climb this and other big limestone trad routes with single ropes, and I bet it sucks.