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Balzac - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Set of nuts, single rack up to #4 with a couple extra peices, good selection of pins for belays and a couple of protection placements
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


This route is to the climbers left of Dropout and is a non descript route better knowen for the mixed route for Balzsout, this follows a right slanting corner to an 'obvious groove' to to steeper pitchs that have the best climbing for the route although the old aid moves have two old rivets that you can not clip the plumbers tape as it is to small for a biner, after that you head up a lower angle break with the odd move to 5.7.

Descent Options:

Walk off, almost any of the EEOR route that arnt super popular would be very diffcult with loose rock

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2015-08-03
Views: 318
Route ID: 115828

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2015-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Intresting adventure

This part of the wall you can almost climb anywhere you want although you can get into some hard ground if not carful, this is not a very well travelled route with no fixed anchors with only the odd peice of fixed gear. The 1-3 pitchs are somewhat easy to follow but ensure you follow to the right on pitch 3, dont head to the bail sling to the left. 4th pitch climbs the very obvious right hand crack DONT HEAD LEFT, the right crack is very fun with great gear. The 5th pitch (crux) climbs a thin poorly protected crack to a steep slab, I was able to get to ok pins that I equilzed in the hand ledge to the left above the thin crack, the rest of the slab and crack climbs ok, at the top of the slab I was able to find some poor gear before the crux, if no one has retro the rivets I would recomend taking some cord to atleast thread them as a fall on the crux with bad gear on this pitch will be bad. The rest of the route follow the huge ramp/gully.

Added: 2015-08-03