Small set of wires, single set of cams up to 3.5", doubles of smaller size nice.
This is a newer route on EEOR (as in only 10years old) that is a good route, the pro is good on the harder climbing with bolts added to some of the harder climbing and most of the belays have bolts as well. The approach is about 1hr-115. The cave is more of a depression than a cave. You can see the crux pitch from the ground as well. This route basically follows weakness’ up through the face and for the most part avoids slaby sections. Some of the easier climbing is a bit run out but if your comfortable on 10a ground you shouldn’t have a problem.
Walk off to the east, rapping route above pitch 7 would be diffcult
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-09-13
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 101666
Climbed with Mark B. and agree with him totally (review below). Best route I have climbed on EEOR and at this point I have done most any of them worth doing. I have a pic of Mark B. that is basically the same as the cover of the Bow Valley Rock guide book which is Mark Piche I believe. That 3rd pitch was a fun corner in a stellar position. Once you get beyond the 2nd bolt on the 2nd 5.11 pitch, that pitch goes below grade, so the whole route goes fairly fast if you are a competent team. The single 5.9 on the route and the last 5.10 were pretty good pitches as well. Rock is decent for a route less travelled. Mark Piche did a good job on this one. The biggest objective is having the guts to follow the pounded out goat/sheep trail on the very edge of top to gain the scramble descent.
This is a very good route for EEOR, and the first crux pitch is one of the better pitchs I have climbed at that grade. The second crux pitch is a bit techy but still good with the hard move being the step right to the second bolt and than stepping left to the belay ledge a bit techy as well. THe last 10a pitch is very good. The first pitch does not have a bolted belay but great ledge and cracks for 2 .5's for a belay. Bolted belays up to the top of the second 11 which on has a single bolt but with micro cams and a small nut you can set a good belay. Aside from a single bolt top of pitch 11 the rest can be on trees or gear. Very good climbing for the most part and of all the routes I have done on EEOR this is the best so far.