Set of nuts, micro cams to #4 camalot (doubles .4-3 nice), recomend pins for Pro
This route follows the farthest right leaning ramp on EEOR, the climb is a mixture of thin corners and slab. The slab is very compact with litle in the way of pro leaveing 25+m runouts alot of times ending in ledges below. The original route follows a tight layback corner with a very thin crack and smooth rock for your feet. As of bow valley rock book has not been freed at 5.8 A1 which I can umderstand now.
Walk off, rapping route would be a headach with out pins and lots of gear
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2013-08-18
Route ID: 114294
This route trys following the right trending ramp although the main corner is avoided now because of the use of aid and some rank rock for where you would have to climb as well as the huge amount of thin grear/pins needed. The first what I would call 5 pitchs climb non discrip slab and corners at low climbing grade. I lead the first 4 pitchs in approach shoes and linked them with a 70m rope as two pitchs. The 4th pitch anchor, one of the hangers is bent over although I cant remember if it was a self drive or a insert bolt. The 5th pitch anchor as a ok pin but the insert bolt has been wrecked buy rock fall the bolt is pulled out 1/2". The 6th pitch is the 5.7 corner crack that its pro would be very thin. A couple of knife blades or thin lost arrows would remove a 15m runout on old school 5.7 ground. The crux pitch starts off with 5.6-7 slab with no pro till a pin/bolt at the base of the face. I countinued a bit to far left on the face to the hand rail but I think you need to go up the groove directly above. The way I went created lots of rope drag with a 5.10c move into the hand rail. The rest of the traverse is sustaned with great hands but very thin feet. This ends at a single bolt with good gear above. The next pitch is very run out and I missed whatever belay there was and linked the rotten corner pitch together whitch ends in a crack feature in the main face at a single pin backed up by gear. I linked the next two pitchs almnost stright up on run out slab to the base of the steeper wall center groove/crack with a single pin and decent gear. The move above I found diffcult so protect right away and than linked the next 2 pitchs up to a large slopping ledge and found a semi ok anchor high right on the ledge. Walk/scramble about 70m climbers right until you find a single bolt on good rock. Head stight up to the large treed ledge, I took the Girls Lie exit as its such a good pitch. Overall a neat route if you are tired of sterized routes although if I did it again I would take alteast 6 thiner pins and expect to leave at least 3 of them.