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Raptor - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.29/5 Average Rating : 3.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Rock
Entirely bolted on moderate-good rock
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.60/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.40/5

Description:

A 9-pitch, mostly slab climb to the left of the Fumbles Gully. Only 4 pitches offer any real difficulty, the rest are easy fifth class with some loose rock. Only the first pitch is 10d and only two moves on that pitch offer any resistance.

Submitted by: sponge on 2003-12-05
Views: 1200
Route ID: 45066

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: kimdan on 2011-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Raptor

First 3 pitches and 8th pitch i found were the pitches worth doing. All the ones in the middle were pretty easy. Crux on the first pitch is well bolted now so many people aid this area. 8th pitch had an A0 sling tied off to one of the bolts. The second crux is on this pitch when you have to clip a bolt to the left when climbing a chimney. Found a great lieback on the climber's right. lead half the pitches.

Added: 2011-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Meh

Nothing special, I really expected a lot more from this climb and I found it not very interesting with the only neat pitch being #8, we had a 60m rope in which we were able to do the route in 4 pitchs with about 14 draws or so, and made for more comfortable belay stances. Its a real shame that this route is considered such a classic as I will not do it again unless for a very good reason.

You can head to greasy lakes once back down for some more physical climbing.

Added: 2009-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Raptor

I led that 5.10b pitch and there is really only one move at the grade. It is finding a right toe as I recall on some well used polished slab, stepping through and you are done. 3 close bolts making a ladder if you want to aid it I guess. Don't think those were mentioned in any beta I saw. The 5.10a pitch higher up was much more exciting maneuvering through a slabby roof. A lot of junk in the middle make this a fast route. Less than 3 hrs for us, moving leisurely I believe. A slower pair allowed us to go first which was quite kind. Thanks guys. With Jackie C.

Added: 2008-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rsbombard on 2007-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First Multipitch

The last 10a pitch was my favourite. The walk off is a little drawn-out, but not difficult.

Added: 2007-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jantzenfranke on 2007-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good first multipitch climb

Really fun for my first multipitch. I found the pitches 6-8 to be the most fun of the climb, with the 10a pitch being the most fun of those three pitches.

Added: 2007-07-16

... Read all 15 ascent notes