A 9-pitch, mostly slab climb to the left of the Fumbles Gully. Only 4 pitches offer any real difficulty, the rest are easy fifth class with some loose rock. Only the first pitch is 10d and only two moves on that pitch offer any resistance.
Submitted by: sponge on 2003-12-05
Route ID: 45066
First 3 pitches and 8th pitch i found were the pitches worth doing. All the ones in the middle were pretty easy. Crux on the first pitch is well bolted now so many people aid this area. 8th pitch had an A0 sling tied off to one of the bolts. The second crux is on this pitch when you have to clip a bolt to the left when climbing a chimney. Found a great lieback on the climber's right. lead half the pitches.
Nothing special, I really expected a lot more from this climb and I found it not very interesting with the only neat pitch being #8, we had a 60m rope in which we were able to do the route in 4 pitchs with about 14 draws or so, and made for more comfortable belay stances. Its a real shame that this route is considered such a classic as I will not do it again unless for a very good reason.
You can head to greasy lakes once back down for some more physical climbing.
I led that 5.10b pitch and there is really only one move at the grade. It is finding a right toe as I recall on some well used polished slab, stepping through and you are done. 3 close bolts making a ladder if you want to aid it I guess. Don't think those were mentioned in any beta I saw. The 5.10a pitch higher up was much more exciting maneuvering through a slabby roof. A lot of junk in the middle make this a fast route. Less than 3 hrs for us, moving leisurely I believe. A slower pair allowed us to go first which was quite kind. Thanks guys. With Jackie C.