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Orient Express - 5.11d

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
13
Full set of nuts, micros to #4 bd with doubles of micros to #1, pins would be nice
1800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

A awsom route that has varied climbing from loose runout corners and slabs to clean solid cracks and roofs and face climbing with an exciting traverse on the left variation. Very much of a trad route with some fixed gear lower down on the route, most of the belays are bolted now as well as the odd protecion bolt. There are a number of belay stances and variations in the top 140m. Do not follow a party on this route.

Descent Options:

Walk of the back side, rapping would be a chore and a tag line or double ropes would be needed

Submitted by: sponge on 2003-12-22
Last Modified: 2012-08-10
Views: 724
Route ID: 46147

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2012-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars wicked

This route is long and full on for the grade, not a begginer 5.9. The frist two pitchs have poor gear with the first being quite poor with bad rock on both and huge fall potential. The rock on the 3rd pitch becomes very good with a strenious 5.9 with good gear and fun climbing. Pitch 4 is a fun pitch with a aquward layback movement into the upper groove. Pitch 5 leads to a good ledge. We looked at the direct route although it is quite runout to the bolts, the traverse is very exciting with good but tecky gear and a hard move on to the ledge which follows a loose face on poor pro to a two bolt belay that isnt marked on the topo. Pitch 7 is very fun with a bit scraby rock at first but becomes bomber and a very fun corner crack. Pitch 8 is another good pitch as well at grade. Pitch 9 Has a long down climb that can be protected well and the down climb is very easy, the slabs are solid but a bit run out at easy climbing to a single bolt with a couple of good nut placements. The corner climbs well however once it turns into a chimney there are a few big blocks on top. The remaining pitchs can be done however you really want, there are many choices with lots of belay stations, we simul climbed it in one pitch at 5.8ish.


Added: 2012-08-06