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Sysiphus Summits - 5.10d popular

Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Bolt gun weilding noob w/ no bolting experience
Rock
PG13
22
Multi-pitch sport climb
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.29/5
  Rock Quality 3.86/5
  Scenery 4.43/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route is 21 pitches long, making it the longest sport climb north of Mexico. Every pitch is 25m in length meaning that after the first pitch (which traverses more than it rises) it is possible to link pitches together. The climb's northernly aspect means that a fleece may be handy on belays even during summer months. Watch for clouds coming over the summit that could indicate bad weather approaching. A competent party should expect to take 7-8 hours to complete the route. Walk down the back side upon summiting and follow the road back towards your car.

Submitted by: sponge on 2003-12-22
Views: 2557
Route ID: 32295

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice climbing

I'd agree that some of the bolting is not great. That said, the route is great fun and took a lot of effort to make. Good job. I also thought the 10D grade was probably about right, but expect a solid 10 D, and don't expect to be able to go bolt to bolt at a lower grade. 6.5 hours on route. After pitch 12, the route is 3/4 done.

Added: 2013-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2011-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Just okay

There is really only one thing that comes to mind when I think of this climb. Bolt placements... They are absolute shit. In ten years of climbing I have never seen a sport climb with so many botched placements, its almost disgraceful. Its clear that no thought was put into where to place the bolts when this thing was rap bolted. The bolts are often off route, it forces you to take the hardest possible path up an otherwise easy section. If you climb this and are thinking, "crap I am off route", you probably are not off route, just the bolts are.

The movement on the route is okay, there are some fun slab pitches, but there is also a lot of choss/ loose rock in sections. I brought a 9.4mm and wished I had not, there is a fair amount of sharp rock and I was a bit on edge running my skinny over a bunch of rock knives. There is a lot of ledge/ slab fall potential so make sure you're solid at the grade if you're leading.

The route can get very cold, even in August so bring lots of clothes! In the end I would say its (barely) worth doing, but certainly not worth doing twice.

Added: 2011-08-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sisyphus Summits

With Zach, the 2nd desert partner I took up Sisyphus...just that good of a route and right out our back door. Beat Joe and my time from several years ago, but not by much, 7.5 from bottom to top. My notes are decent, but I struggled on a pitch I had never led on this route yet, the 10th pitch on the topo, a 5.10c that got the best of me. No issues with any of the other 5.10c's or d's. Either I was tired or will have to change which pitch I think is the crux. Climbing straight with Zach for several days now, pretty sure I am just wasted. Beautiful day! Short sleeves on the summit

Added: 2011-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sisyphus Summits

Great day out with Joe, a bit cold as we had a long rain system settled in Canmore, but we completed it in good style. Took a 70m rope and turned 21 published pitches into 10 total. First traverse pitch, then we doubled up every pitch after and each got one triple pitch in. I got the 5.10d's, but we both agree the crux was pitch 4, which is marked 5.10c on the topo. We have both led it on separate occasions and both feel the slab moves on this pitch are the crux. Great route really, finished in style...some good pitches up high just when you think it might turn to trash. Last four pitches kind of pleasantly surprised us. All anchors and bolts in decent shape, summer 2009. Sure, some bolts could have been better placed, but all in all a great project. If you want to catch more ledges than hanging belays, maybe don't combine pitches 2-3 like we did and you should be set up to catch the ledge belays better by doing all double pitches after that through the lower tough climbing. A Bow Valley classic in my opinion.

Added: 2009-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dropkicked on 2007-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars My quads hurt

Well I think my slab climbing improved from the base of this behemoth to the summit. Good and fun but I would not repeat. Not sure if the high steps killed the quads or the run down to the parking lot from the summit. Also this is the first route ever to have pumped my shoulder.

Added: 2007-09-18

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