This is a great route that always forms differently and can be a scary extremely difficult to straight forward WI 6, most times you will find a full 60m 1st pitch of vertical ice that can be sun baked with overhanging mushrooms and sometimes difficult screws ending in the halfway ledge. Second pitch sees a mushroomed cone leading to the top piller that can have caves and roofs to climb. 70m ropes are nice when doing route in 2 pitches, but 60's will get you there with a couple of meters of simula climbing
Rap route or walk down avy prone gully climbers right
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-08-22
Route ID: 72453
We climbed this at the end of April after having been rock climbing for 3 weeks. The weather got cold and we broke out the ice gear again. It was in pretty fat condition, but the first pitch had sun baked ice until about half way up.
A great route, did it in fat abit sun baked conditions, choose a steaper line for frist pitch, climbing was very stright forward at about 5+ ish for climbing and tricky to get screws in, second pitch went at 5-5+ with reltivly good ice, some small caves to climb out of how ever the upper piller had a large crack but on whole a good route. This year I found it harder than Whitemans but alot easier that Nemesis