Nuts, small cams to #3 camalot, short screws (5 max), pins
You are going for the largest gully that splits the face in the center, there are a few big boulders in the falts that you can cahnge by to get out of the wind. Head up the slope until you hit the first pitch that is easy mixed to WI3, once above those 2 short steps you have about 300m of gain up the gully to the techincal crux of the climb, a corner/slab capped by a roof that you turn on the left. Pro is good but feet are a litle bad and ice makes it a lot easier, aid has been used when there has been no ice, countiune you up for a full pitch of climbing, another 100m past easy mixed leads you to a sheltered belay cave off to the right. Head up the gully to the left for 50m of easy mixed/ slogging until you reach the chimney, may have ice may not, good feet and picks brings you out under a roof to the slopes just below the summit.
Down the NE ridge in a scree/snow gully, be careful of avy conditions on the route as well as on the descent
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2007-10-26
Route ID: 90066
Very good route, some nice climbing and fairly easy to retreat if not to taste, a great starter route for harder alpine routes, as with anything you will want to be very competent with all tricks for this route, do not allow the guide book to steer you astray