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Sword of Damocles - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Mostly fixed pitons (8) with occasional gear in between
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

120m, just to the right of The Dihedral (same start) climb up onto the arrete (first pin high up, loose runout to that point) and start clipping pins. Screamers would be good for the first couple of pins. The first pitch is long (50m), consistent 5.7 and fun, then it mellows out into 5.5 slab, typical of most routes on this wall.

Submitted by: pumpout on 2006-09-10
Views: 601
Route ID: 79653

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: stevenr12 on 2013-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good for First Multi

First multi-pitch practice

Added: 2013-11-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RunOuts on 2011-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Needs a wrench and a little gardening

Climbed this with a buddy as his first multipitch. First pitch was fine, easy scrambling to the start with lots of options for pro placements. I thought the pins would follow the corner more but they are sort of along the face, its a fun first pitch. Second and third pitches are shorter and have short 5.6 cruxes. On the third pitch we found a bolt so loose the nut could be removed by hand, somebody should take a wrench up there and tighten them down. There are also some larger loose blocks on the right side of the climb which are looming. Next time I'll probably knock those off.

Its one of the better multipitches in the valley, lots of pins but you still want to carry some trad gear to back them up, they're pretty old. We shortroped the last section above the third belay station to the top, from there it's a quick walk off the the climber's right.

Added: 2011-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pumpout on 2006-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2006-07-10