Make sure your fingers are have nice callouses before you do this one. Currently, the hardest route at the Juno Wall. Bring a stick clip if your worried about clipping. There is a sequence that makes the second clip reasonable
Wicked technical climbing with awesome moves through the lower third of the pitch. Moves to the second draw are super thin and balancy and is sort of precarious...i wouldn't want to fall here. Your belayer would have to be on the ball to keep you off the ground if you blow before you're clipped. After the second draw is clipped, you get to enjoy phenomenal technical moves with solid smears and sidepulls up to a ledge. It is totally too bad that the rock doesn't continue offering the same grade of technical climbing right to the anchor...but the last 4 metres of the pitch offer more wicked moves high above your last draw, running it out to the chains.