Many runout easy pitches (5.7 or less) on poor quality rock with mixed snow/ice on Angel Glacier as well as near the summit. Make sure to bring ice screws and snow pickets!
Very long one day climb from car to car or two days with bivi (not recommended). Bust out all of your climbing skills because you will probably need them (Rock Climbing, Glacier Travel, Snow/Ice Climbing).
East ridge or hiking trail (much longer) but very easy.
Submitted by: barwatt on 2012-08-27
Last Modified: 2012-08-28
Route ID: 112356
Start by climbing rock face to the right of Angel Glacier (500-600ft?). Then cross Angel Glacier and hope you don't get hit by falling rocks if sun is rising. Start the endless wandering up the left side of the prominant ridge that eventually leads to a sketchy traverse across wet rock (or a small waterfall as we encountered) to get to the base of the crux 5.7 climbing. Enjoy the next 5 pitches (according to the topo we had). We roped this section out in just two very enjoyable pitches. Continue up more endless but easy scrambling on loose, but protectable rock to the final snow/ice slopes. Approximately 4-6 pitches to exit on left side of rock band protecting summit according to route description we had. We actually exited to the right of the rock band, but had to dodge falling rock while we crossed underneath the summit rock band. One of my most memorable climbs and I wouldn't trade all the suffering for anything. 17 hours from car to summit. I would not attempt this route in a day unless you are comfortable soloing or simul-climbing all of the easy terrain on this route because there is a lot of it. I was hit by 7 rocks that I counted on this route that my partner dislodged and dodged countless more falling from the skies above. Still a great route on a big mountain.