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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Jasper : Rock Gardens : Rock Gardens : Fairy Dogmother's Slipper Direct

Fairy Dogmother's Slipper Direct - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
M. Cummings, S. Stanko, S. Steinke, D. Ruddy
Rock (Sport)
G
1
Bolts
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This climb started to the left of “Guidekiller” climbing up and left through a big bulge (12d); however, a direct start was bolted in 2008 by Dana Ruddy. Now instead of climbing into the route from the right, the direct start begins more or less right under the roof - there are two new bolts. This direct start will likely render the original variation obsolete, as it isn't quite as hard and is a better line. The crux is getting established on the face above the bulge. From there, the route is continuous pumpy and technical to the top. It can easily be top roped off the “Tricks” anchors.

Descent Options:

Rap or lower from anchors.

Submitted by: AJones on 2010-05-30
Views: 674
Route ID: 105004

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: AJones on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Love it!

Really liked this climb - tricky to the very top; in fact the last hard moved spit me off a few times before I eventually got the redpoint.

Added: 2010-05-30