Long route with a 2 hour approach. Striking narrow ridge easily visible from the road that goes in about 10- 60m pitches. VERY EXPOSED, but, mostly 5.6/7 with a few 5.8 pitches that are a tad runout. The best route I have ever done and has had very few ascents.
Submitted by: gerglenroc on 2002-06-09
Route ID: 18593
It is no more than a one hour approach. With Mark B. who pretty much nailed it above. Six pitches of simul vs 12 or 14 in the topo I think. There is one decent corner pitch down low. The wave was not that impressive of a feature at all really. However, there is an awesome arch way out right on Kidd out about that height, not en route though. The second to last pitch is definitely the crux, in terms of route finding, the moves themselves and quite a bit run out depending on which line you follow. The three raps are straight forward, not scary at all. Whoever wrote all that about the descent being scary is just not use to free air raps I guess. The fold is a cool looking feature for the Canadian Rockies. Worth climbing for that aspect alone.
For the last few years I have heard that this route is great and everyone wants to do it. This route has some nice climbing in places and a cool setting, but its just not that great, we started at the very base of the rib rather than walking up the scree gully on the left side. The proper start is below a very large tree although you can really climb anywhere you want. Aside from the 3rd pitch (?) in the topo there was nothing special with the climbing, just another ridge climb. On the 3rd pitch there was a fun litle crack to climb. The crux at the 'wave' was a bit off balance but nothing sepecial and the 'wave' is nothing like the waves on paper chase. The upper wall again was just more ridge climbing and you could go where ever you wanted. The upper crux had some thiner slab moves and some poor rock, the crux is protected by a poor pin that would probley pull out on anything more than a slip. You could try backing it up with your smallest cam. Above that crux that can become very runout the rock becomes poor but still climbable. The last pitch is basicly 5.6 with no pro and poor rock but is short. We did this route in 6 pitchs with a 70m and 3 pitchs were done with simul climbing. With a compatent strong parrty you could do this route in 4 long pitchs. The raps are in funny places and can be done with a single. 1st rap 20m to the left on angled ground, 2nd 15m left (best to have ropes far left) at a very exposed stance, 3rd rap 30m free hanging. The rest of the descent is walking down through cliff bands far skiers right and than back left. The approach is about an hour, if compatent at the grade and pitching it out a single rack up to #3 with nuts is fine, if running pitchs together lots of small stuff up to #2 is good to have. For a 5.8 climber the upper crux will be out there, good route for moving fast on.