Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Andy Genereux & Steve Birch
Modern Mixed Traditional
This route is found 50m left of Bonanza. It climbs a direct start into Rockin' Robin then climbs the entire wall left of Bonanza.
P1: 5.10d, 34m. gear to 3.5" Climb past three bolts to a corner climb the corner and then head directly up thin crack to ring bolts.
P2: 5.9, 35m. Climb the shallow corner up to a ledge. Ring bolts to belay.
P3: 5.10d/11a, 35m. Mostly fixed require wires and micro cams. The best pitch on the route. Climbs steady 5.10 ground on the upper half. Steep with good exposure.
P4: 5.10b, 25m. Mixed gear to 3". It hooks around a steep section to a belay directly above.
P5: 5.10a, 30m. Climbs a crack left of the belay upto a right leaning upper corner to ring bolts.
P6: 5.10c, 30m. Stiff crux right above the belay then easy climbing to a ledge with ringbolts to belay and descennd.
Rappel the route three rappels using 2 X 60m ropes 6 to top of 4, 4 to top of 2, 2 to ground all are full 60m rappels. This option can also be used to descend from Bonanza as these routes finish only a few metres apart.
Submitted by: Aprilfool on 2012-07-31
Route ID: 112073
This is a good route overall. The third pitch is the money bit though and makes this a good route to combine with either Bonanza or Legends of the Fall the two other multi-pitch routes in the Bonanza Bay. See the new Ghost River Rock Climbs (2012) by Andy Genereux for the full details on these climbs.