Our target this day on Sunrise Wall, remotely situated deep into the North Ghost, was the Finger (5.10b-5 pitches); perhaps one of the finer pure crack climbs in the Central Canadian Rockies. Unfortunately temperatures never broke above 50F this outing, thus, despite the effort it took to reach this remote area, we opted for the much easier Waiparous Tower climb. Even though the grade of climbing the south end of Waiparous Tower was not the challenge we were looking for, it was still worth the trip.
Waiparous Tower makes one think for a second that he/she might be in the Castleton Valley area of Moab. Waiparous is a true detached stand alone tower in the center of the north end of Sunrise Wall. The only route to have been established on Waiparous Tower is a pure trad line up the south side that eventually turns onto the east face at an eagle’s nest perch before the last pitch carries on to the summit. The descent is a precarious rappel off of a small boulder on the summit that descends the steep western face in between the tower and Sunrise Wall, resulting in a cold, dark and long (60m) rappel. In fact there was no tat left from any previous descent.
Now you find yourself on the relatively small Waiparous Tower summit without a whole lot of descent options. To the north you will notice a small boulder (2008). We left some cordelette on it in 2008. Rappel this boulder over the steep and exposed w
Submitted by: dowww on 2008-09-22
Route ID: 96065