Silver Tongued Devil Crag
About Silver Tongued Devil Crag:
This area is home to the highest concentration of bolted multipitch climbs in the Ghost, if not the Canadian Rockies. The climbing is just less than vertical on very coarse rock. The routes are heavily bolted (and some say overbolted) but you really, really would not want to take a long fall here. Really. The cliff faces south and is protected from the wind - a great early season and late season venue.
There are about 15 routes of 3-4 pitches here, each accessible to a team with around a dozen draws, two sets of anchoring materials, and a 60m rope. Routes are set up for rappelling with a single 60m rope - though some of the rappels are stretchers and tieing knots in the ends is essential.
The routes can be found in both "Ghost Rock Climbs" and "Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies". The following list should not be construed as a guidebook, but rather an indication of what is there. (3p11c indicates a 3 pitch 5.11c).
Seducin' Medusa 4p11a
Southern Lines 4p10d
Nightshift guru 2p10c
Baylies Trail 3p10c
Jerkin'a Gerkin 4p10d
Up in arms 3p10c
Heidies with Hilties 4p10b
There are many single pitch and a few traditional routes here as well.
The wall continues to the east where it becomes mixed trees and cliffs then turns north to the amazing Bastion wall. More bolted and traditional multi pitch climbs are here.
|Nearest town or city:||Cochrane|
|Directions:||Park at North Ghost Parking. Please wade rather than drive across the river during summer. Access is an issue.
|When to Climb:||Update|
|Quantity of Climbs:||Week|