Classic route. Walk off or rappel with two ropes. Guidebook description is WRONG. Here is a link to the guidebook author's corrections:
Submitted by: rockguide on 2006-03-25
Last Modified: 2012-08-01
Route ID: 70486
Consolation free soloed/good bit of fun/ walked off
There is a new guide book out for the Ghost called Ghost River Rock Climbs by Andy Genereux in the Spring of 2012. The improved photos and corrected route description help climbers work their way up this Ghost classic traditional climb. Easy access from the parking only 15 minutes up-hill on a good trail.
With Shaun P. Ok route, tons of traversing left. Did the 5.9 in the open book (Wully Sport), then rapped back down to the top of pitch 2. I highly recommend this, could be the best trad pitch on the wall. Then mixed in some 5.9 sport thing to the left vs finishing pitch 3. Combined pitch 4-5 no worries. The traverse on 6 was quite fun, particularly around the arete...don't go down as the guide suggests, but up and across. Quite sporty. The new raps actually trend skiers left. Old rap line is straight down, but man killer block awaits on rap 2. My rope started crow baring it as I was in free air mode. Some nasty karma going on there. Did trace afterwards, a 4 pitch 5.10d sport route to the right...very, very nice. A must! Cheers.
Got up early so we were the first party there. This proved to be the right decision because the rock on this climb is lose so one should use precaution when climbing. I almost pulled a basketball size boulder that could have cause serious damage to the other climbing parties below.