1st Pitch- 45m- 5.10d/ The crux move on the first pitch is practically off the ground. Start left of a tree. After clipping the first bolt, find a small right facing side pull to maneuver up to the next bolt. This is a move at the pitch grade and since you are so close to the ground, you tend to be a little tentative about it. From there, it was more cruising in the middle 5.10 range, trending left, then straight up well placed bolts to the station. A nice long pitch.
2nd Pitch- 40m- 5.9/ An ok pitch of mostly solid limestone face climbing, up a groove, then trending left towards the next belay.
3rd Pitch- 15m- 5.6/ A junker pitch that can be combined with the 2nd pitch, but I had a 2nd who could lead this pitch but not the others, so we went ahead and split it up. Fun stemming moves up a corner, then left to the base of a fantastic looking corner for the belay.
4th Pitch- 45m- 5.10b/ This has to be one of the better sport pitches in the Ghost. Climb an easier short corner above the belay and then take on the sustained corner above, stemming and lie backing where required. One gets so used to placing gear in corners like this, it was interesting to just climb it without much thought for gear. Of course I would rather see a pitch like this left in trad form. Pull a small roof at the top and rap rings are right there in front of you.
With twin or double 60ís, you can take just two raps to reach the ground. Go back to the #2 belay and then one more to the ground just south of the tree.
Submitted by: dowww on 2008-08-23
Route ID: 95529