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Grand Central Station - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Stephen Keim, Jesse Keim 5.11b route
Rock (Trad) (Sport) (Toprope)
Sport Bolted and Top Rope / Trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


There are actually two routes to include on this anchor located climbers left of Hissy Fit. There is a gear climb / toprope that goes off to the right at the ledge halfway up. This is rated 5.9 on the face plate but I would put it at 5.10b. If you climb this variation, heading left at the bottom is more consistent with difficulty than following the bolts. There is also a sport bolted route that goes slightly off to the left at the ledge. This is a 5.11b climb. Prudent climbers may want to climb the big rock and stick clip the second bolt. Warning: The sport route seems dangerous. The second anchor is too high. A fall while clipping would probably result in hitting the ground, and the third clip is pretty sketchy as well. The second last clip in spot has a loose bolt hanger, but the bolt seems solid enough.... The top bolt has no anchor, but it's only about 15 feet from the second last bolt to the top and this is not a major falling hazard area. The anchors are good. If climbing the 5.10b way on topropte, there is also a small pendulum danger. NOTE: While working this route, my brother noticed that a major undercling on the sport route was loose. We rapped down with crowbars, and worked the rock a bit. A very large boulder broke off. Deadly if anyone was underneath, but we'd cleared the area first. The moral is, use common sense when climbing, the guy who made the route may have missed something. The missing undercling makes the route only marginally harder.

Descent Options:

Easy Rap.

Submitted by: SteveUpsidedown on 2008-10-11
Views: 482
Route ID: 95173

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: SteveUpsidedown on 2008-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Scary!

This is an exciting climb. The sport bolted route has some runout bolts at the bottom and top. The well protected but challenging crux about 3/4 up required some working. Definitely fun climb, but a little reachy. If your scared of falling (or have common sense) you may want to stick with top-roping this one because of the second and third clip-ins.

Added: 2008-08-04