Northeast Buttress | Rock Climbing Routes

Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Coast & Cascade Mountains : Mount Slesse : East Side : Northeast Buttress

Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

standard alpine trad rack. Bring slings for possible rappels. Ice axes and crampons may be necessa

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

The prominent butress that dominates the East side of Slesse. The Bypass and Slesse glaciers can be problematic to cross, but they occasionally slide, which improves access. The lower 3/4 is mostly scrambling/climbing to mid fifth. The upper headwall is sustained in the 5.7 to 5.8 range with some sections of 5.9. The descent is either down the West Side or via Crosscut Pass. Plan your descent well. Rating: 5.9 TD

Submitted by: peas on 2004-07-26
Views: 776
Route ID: 56567

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1997-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

Great route

Did it over two day in stellar weather. Crux is getting off the mountain and back to your vehicle. Epic! Very good route though - route finding skills are important.

Added: 2010-06-05

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

Direct NE Buttress

We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.

Added: 2009-08-21