The prominent butress that dominates the East side of Slesse. The Bypass and Slesse glaciers can be problematic to cross, but they occasionally slide, which improves access. The lower 3/4 is mostly scrambling/climbing to mid fifth. The upper headwall is sustained in the 5.7 to 5.8 range with some sections of 5.9. The descent is either down the West Side or via Crosscut Pass. Plan your descent well. Rating: 5.9 TD
Submitted by: peas on 2004-07-26
Route ID: 56567
We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.