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Northeast Buttress -

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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standard alpine trad rack. Bring slings for possible rappels. Ice axes and crampons may be necessa
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The prominent butress that dominates the East side of Slesse. The Bypass and Slesse glaciers can be problematic to cross, but they occasionally slide, which improves access. The lower 3/4 is mostly scrambling/climbing to mid fifth. The upper headwall is sustained in the 5.7 to 5.8 range with some sections of 5.9. The descent is either down the West Side or via Crosscut Pass. Plan your descent well. Rating: 5.9 TD

Submitted by: peas on 2004-07-26
Views: 964
Route ID: 56567

10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1997-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

Did it over two day in stellar weather. Crux is getting off the mountain and back to your vehicle. Epic! Very good route though - route finding skills are important.

Added: 2010-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Direct NE Buttress

We approached easily via the Propeller Cairn since the Bypass Glacier was pretty much gone and the North Glacier looked too scary to cross under. Lower buttress is overall quite mossy/slabby and up to 5.10a. Starts on a blocky arete with (initially) clean cracks. Descended via Crossover and down memorable, blackfly-infested bushwhacking. No ice axe or mtn. boots needed right now. No water available anywhere on the buttress.

Added: 2009-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mar_leclerc on 2008-09-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars awesome

did it on my 3rd try.. got weathered off twice before, excellent route and fantastic position.

Added: 2008-09-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jand on 2006-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: hans37 on 2005-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-06

... Read all 10 ascent notes