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Ford Mountain Bluffs

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Climbing Sections:

About Ford Mountain Bluffs:

In the Chilliwack River valley (Chilliwack Lake rd. runs up the middle of this valley), Ford Mountain is located towards the center, offering an almost 360 view of the valley if you are to hike to the top on the established hiking route. However, on the south side of the top of the mountain is a large, about half a kilometer long, set of bluffs reaching about 200' height. Many different possibilities for climbing and bouldering, although nothing is known to be bolted or previously climbed. There is also a few formations in the talus slope below the cliff that are large enough to supply some smaller single-pitch playing or toproping. There is a large field of boulders in this area as well. Use extreme caution in the talus field and on the boulders and generally everywhere at this location as the footing is often unstable and many boulders may not be safely positioned.
Nearest town or city: Chilliwack
Directions: From Chilliwack follow Vedder rd. south all the way through town (Sardis/Vedder) until you run into the three-way at the bridge over the river (this will be obvious). Turn left (east) onto Chilliwack Lake Rd. (yes Chilliwack Lake rd. not Chilliwack River Rd. as that is somewhere else). This means turn left before the bridge, putting you on the north (left) side of the river. Follow this for a long time and you will go back across the river at some point (Tamahi rapids) then across Slesse creek which looks like the river but is not (where there is other climbing, see Chilliwack Valley Limestone). Keep following Chilliwack Lake rd for a while after Slesse creek and you'll pass the gravel turnoff for Mt Cheam and Foley Lake and some climbing up there apparently. Soon after you'll see a sign that says something to the tune of "Ford Mountain forestry service road" discreetly on a gravel turnoff on the left into the bush. Watch carefully for that. If you get to the lake you're way to far. Follow the service road (there's some turnoffs but they don't look as good) for a few k up the mountain on switchbacky gravel with some drainage swells (all wheel is fine or four wheel, but two wheel may or may not make it). Eventually you'll see a brown gate that's probably open. The Ford Mountain hike starts on the sketchier looking road heading off to the left before the gate. The Ford Mountain Bluffs are further along past the gate. At this point you may want to park before the gate so as not to be locked in (unlikely) and so as not to risk you car being hit by falling rock from parking below the talus field. Walk up the road maybe five minutes and you'll soon find yourself below the large talus field. Hike up the far (east) of the talus field, which is above the large gravel pullout with the nice view. Beware of wasp nests in dead logs in the talus, and don't send rocks down on others/road/car/etc. Upon reaching the main area you'll see the main wall on your right and the Snagator smaller formation to your left. Boulder field and other smaller formations are further on on your left. The rock in general seems quite hard but also quite loose in areas. Trad placements are sometimes lacking but sometimes there are also places for slings. There are also many trees that can be evaluated for use as anchors.
Latitude, Longitude: 49.10796, -121.60055
Access Issues: Hiking directions describe the gate on the way as closed although it was open 2012 summer. There are no signs prohibiting passing through the open gate but its unclear whether its crown land or what. Also there may be a risk of falling rock when parking or walking at the base of the talus slope, however there doesn't appear to be any rock on the road. Regardless be responsible. Camping shouldn't be an issue as there is tons of room and no-one's ever around the mountain except maybe one hiker or two on the weekend. Again, don't camp below the talus slope.
Camping: Yes
When to Climb: Autumn Spring Summer
Quantity of Climbs: Year

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