Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
A few fist and hand size cams... maybe a larger cam for near the bottom. (3.5-4 inches)
Climb crack left of Sleeping Princess (Pig Pen is the left hand crack of the twin cracks above kids and old guys) Off width turns to akward right hand corner (fist size crack) jam and grind up to halfway where crack thins to hands and crack changes to left hand corner. Less popular than Sleeping Prncess but a good climb never the less.
Rap/lower from bolts (rap rings) or walk off to left (trail)
Submitted by: mar_leclerc on 2008-06-04
Route ID: 94062
I finally led this route, I tried once before but didn't have enough big gear and then didn't try again. This climb is very akward, especially geting into the corner to start. It's graded 5.9 but is your typical 'Burly' OW/Fist crack. The top is nice and easy though :)
If you try laybacking this one the entire way you are not going to finish this climb. You can lay back on parts but you end up having to use jams. The side you can layback switches part way up which makes it tricky. An awesome climb, I think as good as sleeping princess!