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Easy Honey - 5.10b

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Rock (Sport)
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Easy Honey, bolted 10b, 4+ pitch
Approach by rappelling the Sabine upper-buttress rappel route for 6 x 30m raps to the big gravel ledge-system below. Walk west (climber’s left) for about 100m watching for a line of shiny bolts, with a small cairn at the base.

P1, 5.7, 30m, Easy climbing up excellent rock, 3 bolts to a small ledge system, then 5 more bolts up good rock until 2m below the station. Be careful of loose rock for the final moves.
P2, 10b, 25m, Straight up to the 1st bolt, then hard left traverse on good rock past a small pine tree. Keep left to the roof system, and the rock becomes loose. Careful moves left up past bolts, requiring a committing move at the crux. Then up right to another less difficult, but still thoughtful 2nd roof. Moderate face climbing for a few more bolts to a station on the right.
Exit option : From this belay station, it is possible to escape left to Limestone Cowboy by following the ledge system up & right (3 bolts). You end up at the bottom station for Quick-draw McGraw.
P3, 10a, 25m, Looks easy, but the moves past the 2nd bolt require care and good footwork. Then straight up moderate good rock to a 2 bolt below. A good position with a spectacular view of the superb final pitch. Have your camera ready.
P4, 10b, 45m, Steeply up & slightly left on excellent rock, until a very short steep chossy bit. Careful footwork & some levitation get you through the loose section. Then up the excellent steep face following the bolts. Pass a bolted station on the right (Limestone Cowboy) & keep going 15m on easy rock to a 2 bolt station in a gulley. Whew!
P4+, 5.5, 15m, a few pieces of natural protection are helpful, as this is actually the top pitch of Limestone Cowboy, and thus will remain unbolted. Up right through steep but easy blocks on good rock. Through some bush to a single-bolt top station.

Descent Options:

walk up

Submitted by: mthornton on 2009-08-10
Views: 752
Route ID: 101263

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