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Etoile Filante (south face) - 5.11c

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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David Lussier, Cam Shute
Rock (Trad)
1 set of cams from #0 Metolius to #3 Camalot, a second set of cams from #1 Metolius to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts, 2 X 60m ropes
Consensus Ratings
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  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description: The route starts about 15m right of the 1st pitch on the original "Center Route". It begins near the base of a left slanting crack/ramp about two thirds of the way right across the South Face. P1. Scramble up to a small overhang providing access to a left trending ramp/crack system. Climb this, passing 1 bolt and 1 fix piton, to the base a large "V" shaped slot and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9, 45m P2. Climb the vertical arÍte defining the right edge of the "V" slot (crux) to a featured slab and easier ground passing 4 bolts to a 2 bolt belay in and open dish. 5.10d, 25m P3. Climb up and trend right, passing a fixed piton and a few loose block, towards and obvious left facing corner about 30m from the belay. Climb the corner (5.10a) and continue up and right along a ramp system to where it is possible to easily climb back left to a good ledge with a 2 bolt belay. A wandering pitch with possible rope drag. 5.10a, 55m P4. Climb the right-hand crack above the belay for a few meters then step left across a ledge a few meters. Climb a vertical crack leading to a long left leaning corner caped by a roof. Climb this beautiful corner to a small sloping stance about 30m from the top of pitch 3 and belay on good gear. 5.9, 30m P5. Continue along the steepening corner toward the roof passing an insecure lay-back section (5.11a). Look for a few key camalot #1 and #2 placements in odd triangular crack pockets on the right wall just before the crux lay-back. Continue more easily towards the intimidating roof. Climb the left side of the roof then traverses back right wildly along an exposed sloping ledge to a 2 bolt belay. 5.11a, 25m. Note: it is possible to combined P4 and P5 but the rope drag and gear management can be limiting factors. P6. Climb up and left via a thin lay-back seam past 2 bolts. Continue up and right over a steep flake passing one fixed piton. Beware of a precarious looking flake above the piton, it is avoidable. Continue up and right via an steepening arch passing 2 more bolts (5.11b). After the arch climb up and back left passing another bolt then skirt around the left side of an overhang, passing some wild chicken heads, to a small stance with a 2 bolt belay. 5.11b, 30m P7. A few exposed slabby moves to the right past one bolt lead to a thin arching crack caped by a small roof. Exciting the roof through the left side on good gear provides the crux of the whole route (5.11c). Continue straight up with some insecure lay-backing along a left facing corner. The angle of the wall eventually eases and a right facing corner provide access to the east ridge and a two bolts belay. 5.11c, 30m From the top of P7 scramble up in a Westerly direction along the East ridge to the summit, 3rd class, 60m

Descent Options:

The route can be descended in 4 long rappels, see topo. It is also possible to descend via the regular East slope descent (3rd class).

Submitted by: cshute on 2012-06-29
Last Modified: 2012-07-02
Views: 886
Route ID: 111769

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