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Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Kootenays : Valhalla Range : Mt Gladsheim : North Ridge ByPass IV 5.10b, Gladsheim Peak

North Ridge ByPass IV 5.10b, Gladsheim Peak - 5.10b

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Premier Sponsor:
David Lussier, Ramin Sherkat
Rock (Trad)
1 full set of cams to # 4 camalot (doubles of #0.5 to #1 are useful) 1 full set of nuts.
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For detailed information on route and approach, visit: P1. Climb a hand to fist crack in flaring open book providing good stemming with great gear on solid rock. Belay below a big roof with a wide crack on its left, 5.8, 30m. P2. Climb up and right around the roof then back left on wild flakes to the main crack system above the roof with minimal gear (Easier than it looks, 5.7). Continue up a left facing corner to a small belay ledge where the crack system splits two ways. Aesthetic, interesting and somewhat sustain climbing on solid rock, 5.10a, 40m. P3. Climb the deceivingly steep left hand crack to the north ridge, 5.9, 30m. Upper North Ridge. From here, follow the upper north ridge to the summit. The ridge is horizontal but sharp at first.

Descent Options:

The descent is via the regular but technical west ridge.

Submitted by: SMG on 2010-07-01
Views: 605
Route ID: 105636

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