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North East Ridge (normal route) - 5.5

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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small to medium nuts and cams. Ice screws and pickets depending upon weather.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is the route used to decend by the first party to summit. It is accessed from the Hind Hut and is Grade II to III from this point. From the hut it is the line going up the far left ridge line or arete on the mountain. It has a good bit of scree with three rock bands on the upper part of the mountain. They are the red, gray and black bands, in that order as you climb the mountain. Each is a verticle rock pitch the red being the largest pitch at about 80 feet. Weather is a big factor. Some summers the mountain stay in a winter mode and requires good alpine (snow and ice) skills as well as rock. In dry / warm years it is a moderate rock climb. Verticle climb is about 3600 feet from the Hut and 4570 feet from Lake Magog.

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2004-08-17
Views: 1213
Route ID: 38584

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barwatt on 2006-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Mt. Assiniboine

Easy route in good conditions. It took me three tries to summit this mountain though. First attempt was in November and the hike in was brutal through 2 feet of snow the whole way. Once I got to the cabins, and saw what the mountain looked like, I turn around and left. The next year my friend and I got there the day after a snow storm and didn't even make it to the hut. Last year, I finally got some good weather and cruised the route from hut to summit to hut in about 8 hours. Very poor rock quality, but an awesome looking mountain. The hike in and out is amazing, but I'm glad I don't have to do it a fourth time.

Added: 2007-05-03

Red Point Red Point ascent by: hans37 on 2005-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-06

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: fanederhand on 2001-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was a true mixed climbing adventure. The mountain was in winter mode so we wore crampons the whole way even through the 5.5 rock sections. Each of which were covered in snow and ice. The lower section of the gray band was coverd with a thin layer of ice (ie. no ice screw pro possible). From the Hut to the top and back was 10 hours. Of the four parties doing the mountain that day one other summited and returned in 15 hours. The other failed and returned in 13 and 23 hours. This is not a mountain to take lightly and thanks to Rod a great mountain guide for a speedy accent and succesful summit.

Witnessed by: Rod Gibbons (IMGA)
Added: 2001-08-01