A very long climb on mostly shit rock. Dougherty's book lies about the rock quality. Selected Alpine says expect to bivy. We did it in 15 hours and were going fast. (We did temple in 11 and NE Bugaboo in 8).
Hike up the lateral moraine on climber's left of the creek. SCramble up the cliff/rock on the left of the creek. You can cross at several spots, but higher is better because the rock ont he other side isn't as nice. Once across the creek, trend right until you hit the big gully and gain the top of the big step. Go to the end of the step where you encounter a pinacle and zebra striped rocks. Scramble R of pinnacle. Climb up to notch between pinnacle and face. Climb face 5.7. Follow easiest line to notch. Trend R and slightly up, across ledges until you hit a nice rib that you can climb all teh way to the summit headwall. Move L under teh headwall and climb inside a small chimney to gain the summit block. See my route description on bivouac.
Scramble along the SW Ridge, througha cliff band, then take talus slopes down too the fossil bed trail, and then into the trees to town.
Submitted by: socrates on 2010-07-06
Route ID: 105678