See the pic for a the first two pitches. You know im not very good at describing routes, but here goes. Please email me back once you've climbed it and give me feedback on the route, and the grade. Keep in mind its still not totally refined.
Love on the rocks with no ice: 5 pitches, trad ( gear to 4") Some bolts, gear/tree belays. Walk off.
First Pitch: 35m? 5.10c?
From Buffalo rock climb the talus slope to the right of candy box, follow the flagging up some steep scrabling to a small ledge at the base of the cliff. Under the obvious right curving crack. The beginning of the climb is crimper up and over a short roof. There is a pin in the roof for pro. This leads to a steep narrow crack to the tree ledge. Don't go to the tree ledge but do a short traverse to the right and up a few more meters to a bolted station.
A short traverse leads to a larger tree ledge at the base of the obvious left tending crack.
Pitch 2 25m? 5.10b?
From the ledge climb the obvious ramp up to three bolts. There is gear continuing up from here. When the crack starts to barn-door you, change over to some faceclimbing still using the crack for hands. There is a pin before the short traverse to the open book, where you top out to a tree belat.
Pitch 3 25-30m? 5.9?
Work your way up the short rock and scrable to the face below the huge roof of pitch 4. This face climb is fun but watch out for loose holds. It leads to some grass in the corner where a pine once stood. Here there is a steep crack where you can build a bomber gear belay.
Pitch 4 30-35m? 5.10c?
There is a huge crack and chockstone after the short section of crack leading to a lesser slope. Sling the chockstone if you dont have a huge cam and get your feet on it. There are 2 bolts that help you in this crux section. Some chimney style climbing pops you ontop of the giant rock that wants to come off the cliff. Dont wear your favorite jeans on this pitch. After you get out of the chimney and on top of the rock continue along the low angle arete, there is another bolt on this arete. Find the tree to the climber's left and end of the arete and set up a station there. Use lots of slings to prevent rope drag on this wandering pitch.
Pitch 5 30m? 5.9?
Go to left of the station and head up an obvious crack to a ledge. Go up the next Obvious crack to the top of the climb. Walk off following the climbers left down a gulley, follow pink flagging. You come out at Candy Box.
Submitted by: norco98 on 2006-04-07
Route ID: 75766
Fun climb. I have not had a lot of practice with offwidth crack climbing so I found pitch 4 the most challenging....ie had to use the bolt at one point. Pitch one and two are the highlights of this climb, real gem crack pitches. The belay for pitch 4 needs to be lowered from its current location to the lower angle portion of rock approx ten feet below due to the potential fall hazard right on to your belayer not to mention for comfort reasons. It is a nervy pitch when your climbing steep rock right on top of your belayer. When you get past that scare you find there is a bit of a run out to the tricky offwidth.