Start to is Power Tower down and to the left of the corner about 5m or so right of the start of Flower Power. Face moves past one bolt to get into the crack. Then about 15m of just awesome lybacking with good rest and a couple bolts and fixed piton where you'd otherwise need a monster cam. You finish the first pitch on a nice ledge with fixed rap/belay anchors. First pitch is 5.8. 2nd pitch is mostly bolted continues above this anchor up the corner to a tough-looking undercling out to the right. Called Whiplash smile, for a reason... 2nd Pitch 5.11+
I am putting 5.8 as the grade because I dont want to scare anyone off the classic 5.8 first pitch by the harder 2nd pitch.
Either rap form the first station if you're only in it for the 5.8. Though be warned its a rope strecher rap with a 60m. Otherwise there are several stations a top the 2nd pitch that are best used with two 60m or a 70.
Submitted by: Ajohnstone on 2011-01-23
Last Modified: 2011-01-24
Route ID: 107814