Approach up the Phupard logging road, cross the main creek flowing from Oscarís north glacier. Take the next left where the roads forks. From here ascend the logging road to its most North West corner and head up the broad ridge. Climb up to approximately the 3200 ft. The make a traverse across steep forested slopes toward the south. Continue over bench in a south wetly direction eventually gaining excellent views of the glacier. Next aim for the lateral moraine and make your way up to approximately 3700 ft. This makes an excellent camp on the north side of the moraine. With luck this part of the hike can take at (approximately 6 hours).
The climb follows the west portion of the glacier making its way up to Oscar peak. At 5500 ft you will gain an incredible view of Oscar peak. Head towards the large steep snow gulley that takes you over two difficult schrunds. It is possible to aid past the second scrund on the right side up a A1 crack. Then gain the saddle. Climb the ridge at 5.7 to the top 7560 ft. Great views, incredible route! (Approximately 12 hours)
Submitted by: lecuyer on 2005-08-30
Route ID: 69282