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Idiot Savant - 5.10c

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6 bolts plus lots of small-med. gear and possibly even two slung horns
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This route climb the right side of This Is Your Brain crag. Begin by scrambling up the ramp right of Mad Science to a small ledge (can gear belay). Climb a thin crack and face moves for 5m to a slab traverse right. Overcome a short bouldery wall past bolts then climb up gear-protected face to a roof. Bolt protected climbing on plentiful holds leads out the roof and finish up more gear protected face to the top. Look for lots of thin face cracks and pockets for the gear. Doubles of blue through orange TCUs plus one each up to #1 Camalot and a #3 works best.

Submitted by: dru on 2006-03-27
Views: 499
Route ID: 75416