Cat O’Nine Tails / 8 Pitches / 5.10d A0 (6pa) / *** stars
FA: Brian Pegg, Andy Durie (Robin Pegg, Geoff Williams, Cheryl Takahashi) / August 2000
Pitch 4 Variation: Pascal Simard, Barry Mason, Brian Pegg
Excellent climb. Start in a mostly dry gully/chimney 50 m right (west) of the point where the trail reaches the cliff. Climb an easy chimney and ledges, then trend right and up across a sloping bushy ledge to a fixed station at the base of a huge dihedral system [5.6, 40 m]. Climb up a little rock ladder in the main dihedral and step left to a nice belay ledge with bolts [5.7, 25 m]. Layback up a right-facing flake, then move left up a steep and sometimes wet finger crack in a corner which provides an escape from the big main dihedral to a sloping stance with bolts [5.10b, 35 m]. Above the belay, climb either the left or right dihedral (Pitch 4 Variation) – the right offers better climbing. After the dihedrals join up, go right up a steep right-facing flake to bolts at the bottom of the oval face [5.9, 45 m]. The next pitch is the kicker. Climb directly right (not straight up to the sucker undercling) on fins to a bolt. Up past another bolt, then stretch way left to the right-facing flake. Up past two more bolts over thin moves (small nut protects the crux) on flakes. Belay on gear at a small blocky ledge [5.10d, 20 m]. Climb up the blocky right-facing flake to its end, then step left to a thinner flake. Up this almost to the end, then sketch right across thin moves to a steep finger crack. Up this to a sloping ledge and bolts. A sustained pitch. [5.10b, 35 m]. Climb up a left-leaning ramp until thin flakes take you right onto a sloping ledge. Balance left below the roof out onto an exposed face to reach the first bolt of a 6-bolt ladder. Up this above the roof, then stretch right to a hanging corner [5.9 A0, 25 m]. Climb up to a semi-detached flake with a bolt, up the flake to a sloping ledge, traverse up and right to a secret hanging corner above a vast exposed pit. Up the corner, then up blueberry bushes to top out at a comfy tree belay [5.9, 25 m]. Note that it is quite possible to link these last two pitches. Descend by rappelling the route on 2 x 50 m ropes. It is also possible to hike down the steep and brushy trail, but this is a nasty option. Bring long slings or light aiders for the bolt ladder.
Submitted by: mrsleazy on 2005-08-22
Route ID: 69066