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Cougar - 5.10a

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Cougar / 3 Pitches / 5.10a / ** stars FA: John Ford, Brian Pegg, Andy Durie / September 1999 Begin on the far left of the Tigger Ledge just above the last approach dihedral. Climb up and left across an easy face to the base of a blocky dihedral. Up this to a ledge, face climb above and right past a bolt to thin cracks underneath a roof. Up the thin cracks (crux; bring small wires) to the left side of the roof. Climb up and over the surprisingly easy roof on big holds to a crack. Belay on gear at the first semi-comfortable stance 3 m above the roof [50 m, 5.10a]. From the belay, climb slightly down, then make a committing step right across a face to a hard-to-see bolt. Right past this to a stellar 45 m splitter hand crack. If you can’t figure out where to go from here, you shouldn’t be climbing. Bring extra 2-3" cams for this pitch [5.9, 50 m]. Climb easy blocks and ledges to a sloping tree ledge. Belay on the tree [5.7, 30 m]. Decend by rappelling the route with 2 x 50 m ropes to the bolted anchor at the top of This Aint No Pussy Crack, then down to Tigger Ledge.

Submitted by: mrsleazy on 2005-08-22
Views: 359
Route ID: 69068