Wonderful Thing about Tiggers / 7 Pitches / 5.11a (5.10c + 1pa) / *** Stars
FA: Brian Pegg, Andy Durie (1pa on P6) / September 1997; FFA John Ford, Andy Durie August 1998; Pitch 2 Variation Don Serl, Greg Foweraker / September 1992; Pitch 3 and 4 Don Serl, Greg Foweraker September 1992
Great climb. Start on Tigger Ledge on the left side of the Scratching Post pillar, 300 m up and right from the point where the trail reaches the base of the cliff. Climb up easy ledges and right up a chimney above the Tigger Ledge to the base of a dihedral on the left side of the Scratching Post pillar. Continue up this dihedral to a bolted belay [5.9, 50 m]. Move left from the belay into a dihedral, continue up this for 40 m, then move right to a bolted station at the top of the Scratching Post [5.9, 50 m]. Traverse right and slightly down for 7 m, then climb up a clean dihedral with a handcrack for 20 m and belay on gear [5.7, 30 m]. Straight up the bottoming but well protected hand crack to a hanging belay on bolts. Save some larger cams (2 Camalot) for the top of the crack [5.10b, 40 m]. Continue straight up the crack for 5 m, then swing out left for a big layback up the edge of a thin flake (bolt). Traverse left from the top of the flake for 5 m to another crack system, then continue up this to a bolted belay [5.9, 40 m]. Climb up the corner to where the crack disappears, then difficult stemming past two bolts to a small ledge. At the ledge (third bolt) either free climb the short slab or use the bolt for direct aid. Belay on bolts at a ledge 10 m above the third bolt [5.11a (5.10c +1pa), 45 m]. Continue up the hand crack until it is possible to undercling out right to another crack. Continue up this to a large sloping ledge, and climb the dirty corner in the back to a tree belay [5.9, 45 m]. Descend by rappelling on 2 x 50 m ropes, or thrash down the steep trail.
Submitted by: mrsleazy on 2005-08-22
Route ID: 69074