A long time classic. Climb the crack and groove clipping a bolt at the crux while crimping off pin scars to gain Moccasin Ledge. (5.10b) Climb up groove above the ledge through a small roof. Climb the finger crack above while stemming wildly off the opposing wall. Gain a horizontal break, climb left, and mantel (crux) into a flake above (5.10b). Gain a airy belay: the Playboy Club. The last pitch is run out slab climbing protected with bolts and a few small pieces of gear. (5.10a)
Submitted by: slavetogravity on 2005-11-01
Last Modified: 2012-09-11
Route ID: 63038
Bryan is a machine leading this route. Rated 5.10c I may have felt comfortable leading the first P of 10b but the rest was really hard and technical and to lead would have been really gut wrenching! It will be a while before I lead it for sure. In addition the last pitch is really run out after the last fat bolt. traverse left and then up some spicy slab moves to reach the anchor atop. I really don't like falling in a spot like that and I feel it should be protected with at least one more bolt! Well worth climbing if you can lead the grade.
this is a classic line, the 2nd pitch being one of the best of it's kind in Squamish. P2 crack was full of pineneedles and pretty damp. Dug it out with the nut tool quite a bit. Screwed up the traverse on p2 and sat...