Left of Mushroom, the first pitch of this old multipitch 10d A3 was recently recleaned. With a new bolted start it goes at 10b avoiding the old 10d crux. Face climb past 2 bolts then up an enjoyable crack and pull over a small roof, jam to bolt anchors. Lots of fun.
Submitted by: dru on 2005-11-01
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 69759
This climb looked harder than it was. Bryan led first and then I asked him about it and he gave me the reasuring beta that gave me the confidence to lead the climb. He had said it was easier than Mushroom crack and that the roof protected really well as well. I led this climb cleanly and found it sooo much fun!
This route is rated as 5.9 in the Squamish Select guidebook and that rating seejmed a little sandbagged, though I wouldn't say it was even close to feeling ".10b". The moves were all there and pro was good. It was an interesting and enjoyable line; I'm glad we hopped on it.
From the right of the start of Centrefold, watch for the fixed line, which you take to the belay ledge.