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Skywalker - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock (Trad)
G
5
Upto a #3, but it's not necessary. You can get away with fingersize cams
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.71/5
  Rock Quality 4.86/5
  Scenery 4.86/5
  Fun Factor 4.57/5

Description:

Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m. Pitch 2: "The Flume" Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m. Pitch 3: "The Fork" A jug/flake pulling fun fest along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m. Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m. Pitch 5: Climb upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m. Location Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just passed Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Protection I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camelot, but would recommend doubles finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts. All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.

Descent Options:

Follow the orange streamers to get to the descent trail. If you want to see Shannon Falls, follow the orange diamonds on the trees (left). It's worth going to see the falls. Otherwise, head right, following the blazes past a few fixed lines.

Submitted by: gblauer on 2011-08-06
Views: 1439
Route ID: 109575

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fantastic route

Climbed on a friday morning. No lines and onky one party ahead of us. My favorite pitch was p2. Really awesome corner. The traverse at the top was also fun but short. The money pitches are 1 and 2. However the views from the top were incredible and the pools by the waterfall really neat. A must do

Added: 2013-08-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2013-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars popular

watch the line ups!
after topping off, head uphill on the trail to a great cool-off in the pools on top of the Shannon fall.

Added: 2013-08-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: granolapher on 2012-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Super fun climbing, stemmed the second pitch to avoid turning the 5.8 corner into a pumpy layback. Thanks to whoever sacraficed their cam as a piece of fixed gear.

Added: 2012-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: dauramenko on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great views

Super fun

Added: 2012-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: niccast on 2012-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Only first 1.5 pitches

Got half way up pitch 2 when a couple of very big trees fell down near Shannon Falls. It was really loud and followed by 5 minutes of multiple screams, then the sound of sirens. I'm a doctor and my climbing partner was a ER nurse. We decided to back off and see if anyone needed help. Fortunately noone was hurt. The first pitch was fun. The second pitch I was finding really hard. I'm a 10b (sport) climber but I don't have much practice with crack. It was an inside corner crack you kind of had to lay back on.

Added: 2012-08-25

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