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Polaris - 5.12a

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August 6, 2007
Rock (Trad)
A standard rack from small nuts to # 3.5 Camalot with doubles from yellow TCU to # 2 Camalot. 8 quickdraws, 6 single slings, 2 double slings.
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POLARIS 5.12a (5.11b, A0) 10p FA Kris Wild, Reuben Shelton, August 6, 2007 Approach: As for Angelís Crest. 200m up from the entrance to the North Gully. (100m uphill from the ďtree startĒ to Angelís Crest) Itís on the left and itís the only corner. Gear: One set nuts, double set cams up to #2 camalot size, one #3 and 3.5 P1. Up right facing corner, past ledge (old belay) up the next corner through roof and out right to belay. 5.10b, 50m (This pitch was originally Nostromo, 5.6, A2, John Manuel, Bruce Fairley, 1982.) P2. Start left of station and climb into the steep open corner, (pulling on the bolt at the top of the corner will drop the grade to 5.11a) then face climbing and cracks to a large ledge. Watch your rope drag! 5.11c, 55m P3. Out left past flakes and up a widening crack to the base of THE corner. 5.9, 20m P4. Up! Exit via the chimney and use the right-hand station to belay. 5.10c, 40m P5. Scramble up the chimney on the right behind the large pillar, then on top of it and across the balanced boulder. Discontinuous cracks and face climbing lead up and left to a belay beside the main corner. 5.10a, 30m P6. Tune in to your inner ninja for the puzzling crux entering the corner (or pull on the bolt and skip it, you sissy), up the corner to belay at the cedar tree. 5.10c, 30m P7. Up the corner passing 2 trees. At the roof, head left past 2 bolts to belay on a ledge. 5.11b, 55m P8. Face climbing up the white wall, out right to belay. (One #3 camalot optional.) 5.11b, 50m P9. Step right into the crack. Follow it with increasing difficulty until it is possible to clip a bolt and step left to a ledge. (Pulling on a couple of pieces of gear and the bolt make this about 5.11a.) Traverse up right to a perch below the roof, then pull wild moves through the roof and left to the belay. 5.12a, 30m P10. Up nice cracks to the final belay. 5.10c, 30m Descent: Either rap the route with 2 ropes or walk up and right the same as for Northern Lights.

Descent Options:

The route can be rapped from anywhere with 2- 60m ropes. Otherwise walk up to the top on the same trail as from Northern Lights, and descend the third summit backside trail.

Submitted by: gardener on 2008-06-23
Views: 1471
Route ID: 94357

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