Quickly becoming a classic, the U.E. is accessed by crossing the South Gully above the Apron en route to the Squamish Buttress. All belays are bolted and route-finding is straight forward. Largely a face-climbing excersize with some crack moves here and there. Upon reaching the final pitch, one can head right at 5.11b (5.9 A0) or move left for a .10b crack variation. A very worthwhile outing.
Submitted by: yetanotherdave on 2006-09-28
Route ID: 27941
Oooge and I flipped a coin to see who would lead the first pitch. And I went first! Stiff couple moves on the arete and then a long airy somewhat flarring pitch, bring a lot of gear. The Dyke traverse pitch had me a bit freaked out but I managed it allright with an intersting "dismount" of the finish to the route that went a bit off route. Would love to do it again. really fun!