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The Ultimate Everything - 5.11b popular

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (32)
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Standard Squamish Rack to 2".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.60/5

Description:

Quickly becoming a classic, the U.E. is accessed by crossing the South Gully above the Apron en route to the Squamish Buttress. All belays are bolted and route-finding is straight forward. Largely a face-climbing excersize with some crack moves here and there. Upon reaching the final pitch, one can head right at 5.11b (5.9 A0) or move left for a .10b crack variation. A very worthwhile outing.

Submitted by: yetanotherdave on 2006-09-28
Views: 2172
Route ID: 27941

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32 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: karsten on 2014-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great fun!

It certainly has everything, but is the ultimate of nothing.
Having said that, this is a supremely enjoyable day out. I love the variety. Well bolted face climbing with some stellar cracks mixed in. Protection is great, belays are all super cozy. No lack of lunch ledges.

Combine with Rock On for an amazing day of moderate climbing in a spectacular setting.

Added: 2014-06-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dzunit on 2011-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great pitches

Very fun pitches. Aided the last pitch.

Added: 2011-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yannick18 on 2011-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun day

Was a great day, simul climbed Banana Peel into Broomstick Crack. The first half was fairly wet but still easily do-able. Did the 10b crack to finish

Added: 2011-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JonStein118 on 2010-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Onsight Pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9

Oooge and I flipped a coin to see who would lead the first pitch. And I went first! Stiff couple moves on the arete and then a long airy somewhat flarring pitch, bring a lot of gear. The Dyke traverse pitch had me a bit freaked out but I managed it allright with an intersting "dismount" of the finish to the route that went a bit off route. Would love to do it again. really fun!

Added: 2010-10-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: TimePenguin on 2010-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars with the Extreme Ginger

Free solo Broomstick Crack, lead pitches 2 and 7. Combining P7 & P8 a terrible idea. Combining P8 & P9...GREAT IDEA!

Added: 2010-08-06

... Read all 32 ascent notes