Quickly becoming a classic, the U.E. is accessed by crossing the South Gully above the Apron en route to the Squamish Buttress. All belays are bolted and route-finding is straight forward. Largely a face-climbing excersize with some crack moves here and there. Upon reaching the final pitch, one can head right at 5.11b (5.9 A0) or move left for a .10b crack variation. A very worthwhile outing.
Submitted by: yetanotherdave on 2006-09-28
Route ID: 27941
It certainly has everything, but is the ultimate of nothing. Having said that, this is a supremely enjoyable day out. I love the variety. Well bolted face climbing with some stellar cracks mixed in. Protection is great, belays are all super cozy. No lack of lunch ledges.
Combine with Rock On for an amazing day of moderate climbing in a spectacular setting.
Oooge and I flipped a coin to see who would lead the first pitch. And I went first! Stiff couple moves on the arete and then a long airy somewhat flarring pitch, bring a lot of gear. The Dyke traverse pitch had me a bit freaked out but I managed it allright with an intersting "dismount" of the finish to the route that went a bit off route. Would love to do it again. really fun!