Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Ryan Kurytnik & Dave Brayden
Gear to #4 Camalot (doubles of TCUs and #1 & #2 Camalots) & 15 Bolts
A new 8 pitch alternative to the Squamish Buttress and the Ultimate Everything located just left of the Ultimate Everything on the Echelon wall.
Pitch 1: 5.8 Gear to 1" & 3 Bolts 28m
-Start at the belay anchor on a ledge, accessed via a small gully with a fixed line 15m left of the start of the Ultimate Everything.
-Climb out right either to the bolt and traverse back or directly up the diagonal crack skipping the first bolt (5.10a).
-Gain the large ledge then up a flake past 2 bolts and back left to a large ledge and ring anchors.
Pitch 2: 5.10a Gear to 1.5" & 2 Bolts 35m
-Stem in the corner through the technical crux around the first bolt.
-Ascend the finger crack above.
-At the 2nd bolt climb right up the arete and over to the other crack and to the rap-ring/webbing anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10c Gear to 1" & 4 Bolts 31m
-The crux pitch
-Walk up to the main ledge using the fixed line then over left about 20m and up 3m to a ledge at the base of a stunning crescent crack.
-Climb the thin crack with increasing difficulty as the crack closes.
-The crux is thin and quite technical below the lip.
-Mantle onto the ledge then over the bulge up the easier crack/groove to the ring anchors.
Pitch 4: 5.8 Gear to 4", 1FP & 1 Bolt 33m
-Often wet until later in the season but usually still climbable even when wet.
-Climb left up the fault line.
-Half-way up climb right around an undercling to a fixed pin.
-Climb up the slabby dihedral crack past a bolt then a wide crack on the left (#3 or #4 Camalot) to the ring anchor.
-Shares the anchor with the 4th pitch of the Ultimate Everything
Pitch 5: 5.10a Gear .5-2" 25m
-Walk up the trail left about 30m to the base of a nice dihedral hand crack.
-Jam the hand crack then continue steeply up the thin crack avoiding the tempting ledge to the left.
-Gain the main ledge then climb the double lay-back cracks above.
-Quite powerful at the end of the crack to gain the ledge above.
-Easy ledges from there to the ring anchors.
Pitch 6: 5.10c Gear to 3" 40m
-The steep impressive looking crack 70m to the left of the anchors of pitch 5
-Look for several unexpected jugs.
-The difficulty increases above the alcove with tenuous lay-backing.
-Gain the ledge over half-way then up the slab to the flake then over the lip.
-The ring anchors are about 5m further back on a small ledge of rock.
Pitch 7: 5.8 Gear to 1" & 4 Bolts 34m
-Gain the main ledge using the fixed hand-line then walk left about 10m to the start, marked with a belay bolt.
-Climb out left in the broken cracks then up the slab past 3 bolts.
-Climb the flakes above on easy ground to the final bolt on the final slab.
-Gain the hand crack then up right to the ring anchors.
Pitch 8: 5.8 Gear to 2" & 1 Bolt 40m
-Climb out left past a bolt, avoiding the dirty dihedral.
-Climb around a flake then through a series of diagonal cracks to the tree mid-way.
-Climb the fine finger crack above with great nut placements to the top anchors.
-Hike up then right to the top of the second summit.
-Descend via the second summit trail to the southwest.
Submitted by: ryanguy on 2007-08-04
Route ID: 87480
Dave and I finally finished the route after 2 years of working on it, very sporadically mind you. Started from the car at 4:30pm, ran up Boomstick then over and up the route. Took 5 hours to climb all 8 pitches. Finishing in the dark was quite fun.