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Upper Echelon - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Ryan Kurytnik & Dave Brayden
Rock (Trad)
PG13
8
Gear to #4 Camalot (doubles of TCUs and #1 & #2 Camalots) & 15 Bolts
870
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

A new 8 pitch alternative to the Squamish Buttress and the Ultimate Everything located just left of the Ultimate Everything on the Echelon wall. Pitch 1: 5.8 Gear to 1" & 3 Bolts 28m -Start at the belay anchor on a ledge, accessed via a small gully with a fixed line 15m left of the start of the Ultimate Everything. -Climb out right either to the bolt and traverse back or directly up the diagonal crack skipping the first bolt (5.10a). -Gain the large ledge then up a flake past 2 bolts and back left to a large ledge and ring anchors. Pitch 2: 5.10a Gear to 1.5" & 2 Bolts 35m -Stem in the corner through the technical crux around the first bolt. -Ascend the finger crack above. -At the 2nd bolt climb right up the arete and over to the other crack and to the rap-ring/webbing anchors. Pitch 3: 5.10c Gear to 1" & 4 Bolts 31m -The crux pitch -Walk up to the main ledge using the fixed line then over left about 20m and up 3m to a ledge at the base of a stunning crescent crack. -Climb the thin crack with increasing difficulty as the crack closes. -The crux is thin and quite technical below the lip. -Mantle onto the ledge then over the bulge up the easier crack/groove to the ring anchors. Pitch 4: 5.8 Gear to 4", 1FP & 1 Bolt 33m -Often wet until later in the season but usually still climbable even when wet. -Climb left up the fault line. -Half-way up climb right around an undercling to a fixed pin. -Climb up the slabby dihedral crack past a bolt then a wide crack on the left (#3 or #4 Camalot) to the ring anchor. -Shares the anchor with the 4th pitch of the Ultimate Everything Pitch 5: 5.10a Gear .5-2" 25m -Walk up the trail left about 30m to the base of a nice dihedral hand crack. -Jam the hand crack then continue steeply up the thin crack avoiding the tempting ledge to the left. -Gain the main ledge then climb the double lay-back cracks above. -Quite powerful at the end of the crack to gain the ledge above. -Easy ledges from there to the ring anchors. Pitch 6: 5.10c Gear to 3" 40m -The steep impressive looking crack 70m to the left of the anchors of pitch 5 -Look for several unexpected jugs. -The difficulty increases above the alcove with tenuous lay-backing. -Gain the ledge over half-way then up the slab to the flake then over the lip. -The ring anchors are about 5m further back on a small ledge of rock. Pitch 7: 5.8 Gear to 1" & 4 Bolts 34m -Gain the main ledge using the fixed hand-line then walk left about 10m to the start, marked with a belay bolt. -Climb out left in the broken cracks then up the slab past 3 bolts. -Climb the flakes above on easy ground to the final bolt on the final slab. -Gain the hand crack then up right to the ring anchors. Pitch 8: 5.8 Gear to 2" & 1 Bolt 40m -Climb out left past a bolt, avoiding the dirty dihedral. -Climb around a flake then through a series of diagonal cracks to the tree mid-way. -Climb the fine finger crack above with great nut placements to the top anchors.

Descent Options:

-Hike up then right to the top of the second summit. -Descend via the second summit trail to the southwest.

Submitted by: ryanguy on 2007-08-04
Views: 1365
Route ID: 87480

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: shutupandclimb on 2007-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FFA

Long time coming, but finished this route we've been working on for several years. Great fun!

Added: 2007-08-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ryanguy on 2007-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FFA, finally.

Dave and I finally finished the route after 2 years of working on it, very sporadically mind you. Started from the car at 4:30pm, ran up Boomstick then over and up the route. Took 5 hours to climb all 8 pitches. Finishing in the dark was quite fun.

Added: 2007-08-04