From the base of the dihedral on Diedre, move right and climb an excellent sustained slab up and over the overlap. The original ascent split the overlap pitch in two with a belay out right but you can link them by avoiding the traverse, climbing straight up a 10m runout into the crux 10c moves. Above, finish up the bolted 5.9 arete above upper Sickle. This climb has "just enough" pro and is a good introduction to the harder slab climbs around Squamish.
Submitted by: dru on 2005-10-31
Route ID: 69761
This climb is old-school slab climbing with run-outs and thin, thin moves in the 10b and 10c sections. The first 5.9 pitch has one bolt after 10 meters or so then you continue up 15 more meters to the anchors. The moves are all there but it can be a bit of a nail-biter right from the start. The second pitch (10b) starts with a bold pad up to the overlap where it's plenty tense to get in your first piece of gear. I plugged a BD #2 into the left hand undercling then moved right and plugged in a BD .75. I then went back to the first piece of gear and removed it to prevent rope drag. From there, you move up onto the overlap and past two bolts on thin but decent crimps. We opted to traverse right through to the anchors out on the right before going into the crux pitch. I assessed a direct route from the 10b pitch into the 10c pitch and thought, "No bloody way. It's plenty tense already" This 10b pitch has been indelibly marked in my mind. The crux pitch, next, is plenty fun with thin crimps and pebbly smears. The business starts from the opening moves and past 3 bolts as you traverse up and left. After you've cleared 3 bolts you have to negotiate a scoop (very much like One Scoop with Delicious Dimples). It's a bit thinner than One Scoop but very similar in that it's thin, then stems, then smears, then the smallest of crystals to get you past the crux. Some small finger dimples save the day and give you just enough to pass. Once you've gotten past that section you're onto a dyke and the anchors are over the lip of the arete and not visible from the climb. Any falls on this pitch would be a swinging good time but not dangerous. The second last pitch is a 5.9 arete pitch that's somewhat off-balancey but really fun. The last pitch we crossed onto Diedre and finished up. We had 9 draws and used from BD .3 to BD #2 (using the gear in the first pitch of Diedre and in the overlap.)