Start at the bolted dyke at the North end of the Solarium. Pitch 1: climb bolted dyke to above a bulge, then head right to a tree below the most beautiful crack in the world (5.10a). Pitch 2: Self explanatory from pitch 1 (5.10a) Pitch 3: Up and right, then back left to the base of a corner (5.6) Pitch 4: Up the corner to the top (5.10b) Scramble to the top of the Chief from here. An alternative 4th pitch goes up the arete to the right of the corner at 10c. An alternative finish from the top of the 2nd pitch follows the last pitch of Mere Mortals keeping the whole climb at 10a.
Submitted by: peas on 2003-07-14
Route ID: 38068
With Karl Manzer. I got pitches 1 and 3. The low bolt on p1 was chopped, so the start was extra exciting. This is the first time I've done pitch 3 and it was a lot easier than it looked, but Karl thought otherwise.